Asuncion - struggle town

A number of the group took the three hour tour of the city starting at 9 this am. Our guide knew his history and went through the stages as we first walked through the old city and later as were drove to a Lookout ( yes there is a bit of a hill where the dictator put up a memorial to himself) and then through some of the newer suburbs with shopping centers just like ours. The 'girls' were glad when the history lesson finished so they could get on with the shopping. It is said to be duty free so some are talking of getting perfume and other gifts.We are staying in the Hotel Palace in the old town. It once was the home of the dictator's brother and we saw the grand house of another brother close by. History starts with the Spanish arriving in 1537 and finding friends in the local indigenous Guarani people. The colonialists based themselves here and from here and Rio De J they invaded other areas looking for precious metals. They intermarried with the local women and that mix became Paraguayan. They have had some reasonably prosperous and stable times during long dictatorships. They have made friends with Taiwan (only sth America country to recognize them as a separate country) and USA was supportive while they held a strong aversion to communism.The country is now second to Bolivia in poverty. Average income for a family of 5 is $100 per week. Many people do not have work and make a living through business- probably selling bits and bobs on the street. Petrol at $1 a litre sounds cheap but perhaps not on those wages.They are close to having a democracy now but the majority of candidates are on the right. The Catholic church is strong and in fact there was national holiday today when pilgrims went to a church out of the city where they might camp for a week of celebrations. The area where our hotel is located is dead today with only a few tourists and local dogs wandering about.We saw a shanty town by the river (dangerous place to go); palace where an opposition figure was held for 25 years in the cells below; the old and new parliaments; a 15 year road project just starting many years after having international money granted; buildings in need of maintenance; an old navy ship from Italy? And they still have navy patrol boats even though they have no access to the sea! The country has had many waves of immigration. There was a disastrous war with their neighbors who ganged up to eliminate the country. The majority of men were killed and the population went from over a million to less than 800,000 with only 3000 adult men. Many immigrants came from Europe including Mengelev Nazi from Auschwitz who was protected by the dictator. The general was eventually killed In a military coup. One thing improved after that - general Stroessner had been advised by world health organisation that his population needed iodine for health but did nothing. After the coup the new boss ruled that iodine be included in salt. Before that there were many in the population with mental deficiencies. On the positive side we had a great meal last night at a Spanish style restaurant with a lot of character and good friendly service. Might go again tonight! Another positive is the music which has origins in Europe and with a national dance being the eastern european inspired polka. Apparently there are polkas for everything including political parties and football teams. Hard to imagine that one happening at home. Barrios is a local composer who is most recognized abroad. I have some CDs with his guitar music. There is also a special local harp,with 36 strings which is more than one from Europe. Harp and guitar are a popular combination.

Paraguay is celebrating is bi-centenary this year - 200 years since gaining independence from Spain. There are flags and posters all around the city.