Caiman, cabivaras and crowds of birds at Carlos Pelligrini

Away from everywhere and at the end of a very bumpy road was the settlement of Carlos Pelligrini which sits right by the Ibera Wetlands. This is a national park of some 1.4 million hectares of flat swampy land through which many rivers empty. It is a haven for flora and fauna and the town appears to live by providing travelers with full board and trips out into the areas of the park that are open to visitors. A large part of the park is closed which is good. We were told they have reintroduced large anteaters into the area and it appears there is a serious effort to protect the environment too. Nevertheless there are cattle farms right up against the park and it is possible to see cows and capybaras using the same space.Having seen photos of these strange animals I could never imagine what size they were. The closest animal I could associate them with was the wombat and perhaps they share an origin some time in prehistory. Grass eating, swimming, rodents with three toed webbed feet are certainly different. There were many of them grazing and swimming along the waterways in the late afternoon when we were taken out in a boat to cruise through the shallow channels. Waterlillies and water hyacinth covered the shallow areas and other water plants grew in spaces suited to them. Birds were plentiful. Some I knew by family eg the equivalent of the spur winged plover and rails but the southern screamer was a new one for me. A bird almost the size of a turkey but it flies better than you would think and is grand to see coming in to land. We saw jabiru which look like those in Aus plus king fishers, ducks etc. I love this place and can see why it is popular with bird watchers.We stayed for two nights and on the second evening we went out again this time to spot a marsh dear which we eventually did. Roger and Karen from UK were as keen as I was but the younger women gradually lost interest and one could tell from their body language they were keen to get back and try some more local wine. Other animals seen include howler monkeys, eating not howling, a small rainforest dear and I spotted a good sized snake when outnwalking on the last morning.

San Ignacio

Today we visited the place the movie "The Mission" was made at and about. Filming also took place at Iguazu Falls. The ruins of the mission including a massive church which originally had 20 meter walls were sitting in the centre of a rather basic little town but in the mid-1500s it was a large town with two missionaries and thousands on Guarani people who actually built the whole establishment. It's incredible to consider the influence and changes those two men had on that community. They taught the locals how to build with stone and they changed from a nomadic life to living in the town they built. They made everything including metal work, casting bells for the church and carving the angels above the doorway of the church. The architecture is called Jungle Baroque. Eventually the Spanish
Powers decided the missionaries had too much power in the colony which could lead to rebellion and they were ordered to disband. After this the mission fell into ruin and only in the 1940s was there an attempt to save what remained. There isn't much to say about the town. The hotel was basic, the town had lots of dogs moseying about. There were a few kids begging and hassling around the mission. I noticed quite a few Indian houses in the area with small wooden houses and a garden of vegetables including lots of corn.

Iguazu Falls from Brazil and Argentina

My second visit to the falls was never going to be a disappointment, just the opposite. It was so nice to see all that water and green jungle after traveling across the pampas which is flat and often dry. Our outing on the Brazilian side started at a local bird park where we were able to see close up many of the colorful birds of the jungle. I suspect many of these are not as common in the park outside as they once were. The bird park was in a lovely jungle setting with large aviaries, some of them walk in ones. In one of these a cheeky toucan took a liking to my watch buckle and later my gold rings. He tugged at them with his long green beak and then flew onto the path to try the toggles on my sandals. I didn't see him initially and found myself being tapped on the shoulder by a local who pointed put that I was treading on a toucan's tail feathers! The park is well worth a visit and for my mind we didn't have enough time there before we were taken off to either take a helicopter ride over the falls for $110 USD or to go into the national park. Some of the girls took the flight but it seemed too much for ten minutes so I went through the entry point and took the free bus up to the end of the road from where it is possible to walk to a point where there are falls all around and one can get saturated standing out on the boardwalk over the falls. Dinner was at a buffet style restaurant where for $20 you got heaps of choices for salads and then they brought around so many different roasted meats on sword length skewers. It was beautifully cooked and delicious all around. I was excited to learn about the all you can eat ice cream. I can report that it is possible to eat too much of a good thing.The following day we travelled to the Argentinian side of the falls. There was the usual delay on the border with our guide Alex declaring that they change the rules every time he crosses. His take on this was that they give the Brits a hard time because of the Falklands war. I was surprised to hear they have a grudge against the Chilieans also and one friend of the guides had been delayed for three hours without any explanation (except that they mustn't have liked where he came from)!Our full day at the park was spectacular. We walked to the boat and took the exciting ride under the falls where everyone got drenched. I could not stop laughing as more and more water poured down my back and at times I had so much water in my face I couldn't open my eyes. There is more water going over at this time of year than when Siew-Gim and I came last February. The falls were boiling and the mist coming up was caught by the sun creating rainbows. All very impressive.Our afternoon was spent walking on the tops of the falls and then talking the little train up to the Devils Throat where we walked for a kilometer across the metal walkways to see the water cascading down from a wide flat river to a narrow 1000 foot drop. Wow!! And wow again.

Paraguay to Foz

Asuncion was looking more lively aswe set out around 7.30am. While we got a good start we soon lost it as we had trouble finding the road out of the city. We had to turn around a couple of times and got lost later as we approached the border with Argentina. It turned out to be an extremely long day as we didn't stop for lunch and we had got the impression we would be there in five hours - it was more like 12!!! My problem was that I had spent all of my Guarani currency thinking we would be out quickly and so, even when we stopped at a service station I had no money for food. The drive took us through more fertile farming country and it was nice to see the red soil being used for crops like soy bean in very neat rows. People were selling large mangoes by the roadside and there were also lots of melons on sale again. We went through the town where the religious festival had been held the day before. There was rubbish streamed along the road in both difectionsin and out of the town as pilgrims must have been served food and drink along the way and dropped the paper and plastic cups were they stood. The border, which we reached around 3.30pm was teaming with people and their Christmas shopping all trying to get back to Brazil and through their customs. We were told there is a lot of contraband going from Paraguay to Brazil but I don't know what the trade is in. We saw a few cars pulled over and searched but the number of people in luring those in sleeping buses with the holds absolutely stacked probably means that a lot of whatever it is gets through. Our bus got held up in a traffic jam so we eventually walked up to the border, got our exit stamp and then across this gorgeous river on a high bridge into Brazil where we lined up for entry stamps in the passports. This time it worked out well as our bus crawled into view through the traffic at that stage. Sadly our excitement at being on our way was short lived as we climbed aboard Millie only to then have to wait in the heat while the bus was signed into5The country. We were all getting a bit frazzled by this time and the offer of a night out to a dance/buffet evening got no takers. Had dinner at the hotel restaurant which was ok but not great.Wen are staying in the Taroba hotel which is in the Best Western group. It is quite nice.

Asuncion - struggle town

A number of the group took the three hour tour of the city starting at 9 this am. Our guide knew his history and went through the stages as we first walked through the old city and later as were drove to a Lookout ( yes there is a bit of a hill where the dictator put up a memorial to himself) and then through some of the newer suburbs with shopping centers just like ours. The 'girls' were glad when the history lesson finished so they could get on with the shopping. It is said to be duty free so some are talking of getting perfume and other gifts.We are staying in the Hotel Palace in the old town. It once was the home of the dictator's brother and we saw the grand house of another brother close by. History starts with the Spanish arriving in 1537 and finding friends in the local indigenous Guarani people. The colonialists based themselves here and from here and Rio De J they invaded other areas looking for precious metals. They intermarried with the local women and that mix became Paraguayan. They have had some reasonably prosperous and stable times during long dictatorships. They have made friends with Taiwan (only sth America country to recognize them as a separate country) and USA was supportive while they held a strong aversion to communism.The country is now second to Bolivia in poverty. Average income for a family of 5 is $100 per week. Many people do not have work and make a living through business- probably selling bits and bobs on the street. Petrol at $1 a litre sounds cheap but perhaps not on those wages.They are close to having a democracy now but the majority of candidates are on the right. The Catholic church is strong and in fact there was national holiday today when pilgrims went to a church out of the city where they might camp for a week of celebrations. The area where our hotel is located is dead today with only a few tourists and local dogs wandering about.We saw a shanty town by the river (dangerous place to go); palace where an opposition figure was held for 25 years in the cells below; the old and new parliaments; a 15 year road project just starting many years after having international money granted; buildings in need of maintenance; an old navy ship from Italy? And they still have navy patrol boats even though they have no access to the sea! The country has had many waves of immigration. There was a disastrous war with their neighbors who ganged up to eliminate the country. The majority of men were killed and the population went from over a million to less than 800,000 with only 3000 adult men. Many immigrants came from Europe including Mengelev Nazi from Auschwitz who was protected by the dictator. The general was eventually killed In a military coup. One thing improved after that - general Stroessner had been advised by world health organisation that his population needed iodine for health but did nothing. After the coup the new boss ruled that iodine be included in salt. Before that there were many in the population with mental deficiencies. On the positive side we had a great meal last night at a Spanish style restaurant with a lot of character and good friendly service. Might go again tonight! Another positive is the music which has origins in Europe and with a national dance being the eastern european inspired polka. Apparently there are polkas for everything including political parties and football teams. Hard to imagine that one happening at home. Barrios is a local composer who is most recognized abroad. I have some CDs with his guitar music. There is also a special local harp,with 36 strings which is more than one from Europe. Harp and guitar are a popular combination.

Paraguay is celebrating is bi-centenary this year - 200 years since gaining independence from Spain. There are flags and posters all around the city.